Saturday, 4 July 2015

Dawson City, YT

 We rolled into Dawson City and excitedly began to explore. First stop was lunch at Klondike Kate’s where we each devoured a burger on the back patio.

Delicious burgers at Klondike Kate's

Much of the town has been preserved due to its world famous roll in the 1898 Klondike Gold Rush. Many of the buildings are taken care of by Parks Canada, Some by the city and others by private business owners. Many more, with no patron to fund their costly upkeep, have become decrepit and precariously lean on their neighbours. 
Permafrost heaves and decades of decay leave some buildings inaccessible 

Yukon River car ferry
 Our search for lodgings lead us to the West side of the town. The Yukon River is easily traversed by a free car ferry. The Canadian government has never gotten to building a bridge, so they fund the ferry instead. It’s available 24 hours a day in the summer. After the river freezes, the locals simply drive across the ice in the winter.

On the ferry, that water's moving fast!
We decided to stay at the rustic, but very cozy Dawson City River Hostel. Their cabins had no power or running water. In the kitchen was a wood burning stove, outhouses for toilets, and for a shower- a Turkish bath. To use a Turkish bath, you must first heat a tank of water by lighting a fire under it. Then, fill a bucket with both the heated water a fresh cool water to the desired temperature. Proceed to dump the bucket over your head. It was quite the experience. 
Top bunk gremlin 

 Once we settled in we crossed back over the river into town to check out the night life.

Tours running on the Yukon River in a historic boat. 
 Diamond Tooth Gerties is a must do attraction in town. There are three different shows running each night capturing both period style cabaret as well as modern style entertainment. There's also a casino and restaurant.

First show of the night
Enjoying a few drinks

Our winnings!!
Volunteers brought up on stage to dance with the girls


Bill with the ladies

Walking home at 1 am in the midnight sun
The next morning we hurried back over to town to catch the Canada Day Parade. We missed the first half unfortunately, but we were in time for the flag raising and community BBQ a the city museum. 
Side car dog sticking it out in the rain

Gerties Dancers and Mounties doing the flag raising on Canada Day


More of the parade

Restored buildings in town.
 After the BBQ we stayed to watch a documentary about Dawson City at the museum and get out of the rain for a bit. Afterwards we headed over to the cultural center for free bannock.
Free bannock and jam at the cultural center

Exploring the Palace Grand Theater
 Our snacking continued at Alchemy Cafe where we got some tasty smoothies and enjoyed a cool atmosphere.

The Dawson City Soft ball team was putting on a fundraiser BBQ and car wash. Some of the players dressed down for the occasion. 
Dawson City Soft Ball team fundraiser car wash


There was also a band playing at the BBQ

Historic S.S. Keno is permanently moored on Front St. 


On the Yukon River

Apparently people actually rent this place out year round. 
 It was our last evening in Dawson City, and we had one more task on our to do list. The Downtown Hotel offers a most unusual drink called 'The Sourtoe Cocktail'. If you're interested, bring your drink to the corner of the bar after 9 pm and a toe will be deposited in your drink.  While you drink your drink your Sourtoe Cocktail, the toe must touch your lips but no further. The fine for swallowing the toe is $2500.00. Recently raised from $500 after a customer deliberately swallowed the toe. The bar has gone through eight toes since the tradition began in 1973. Yes it is a real toe.
Yes, that is a real toe.

Car ferry

Midnight sun
 Down the river from our hostel was a shipwreck grave yard containing at least three disintegrating river boats. After the gold rush they out lived their usefulness and were abandoned on the shores of the river.
We carefully explored the rusting hulks. This could definitely be a scene for a scary movie.






Tombstone Territorial Park

From Whitehorse, we packed up early and headed North on the Klondike Highway through endless forest and hills until we reached the junction for the Dempster Highway.


The Dempster is the only road in Canada that will take you all the way up to the Inuvik, a small community in the North West Territories well above the Arctic Circle. The road is made of sealed gravel since a paved highway would literally sink beneath the permafrost in the summer. In addition to its remoteness, the Dempster is also notoriously hard on tires. We brought along a full spare instead of a doughnut even though we were only planning to drive the first 100 km of the 735.5 km road and luckily we didn’t have to use it. 
The beginning of the Dempster Highway
Tombstone Territorial Park lies within the first fifty kilometers of the Dempster and spans the next fifty kilometers where the tree line gives way and the permafrost digs deep.


We stayed in the parks’ front country campsite for two nights. When we woke up our first morning there, it was raining pretty good so we spent some time looking around the visitors center. They had some free tea and a museum.

Tea time
 
Glad we didn't run into this guy

 

Taking a rest on the hillside
With the weather on our side, we set out to hike to Grizzly Lake. The trail was a strenuous uphill hike to a lookout point viewing Mt. Monolith and Tombstone Mountain. Beyond the lookout was more steep hiking along the hilltops to the hidden Grizzly Lake.

We started off that morning full intending to make it all the way to Grizzly Lake and back before dinner. I have love hiking, especially in the mountains and I rarely have a problem with altitude sickness, but something about this hike sent my heart racing and my head spinning. We still made it to the first look out but it was a slow going. The view however, was very rewarding. 
The long slope up to the view point
We turned back shortly after the view point. I just wasn’t in any shape to continue on uphill but I’m really glad we made it as far as we did.
The view from the Mt. Monolith lookout. 
  
Relaxing in the tent after dinner
The following morning, we drove up to the Northern half of the park where the tree line ends. 
Driving the Dempster North of the tree line





Tombstone Mountain View Point
The tundra landscape stretched out before us. It was unlike anything I’ve ever seen.